Sunday, September 14, 2008

Bienvenido a Perú


My first day in Peru started early Friday at 6:15 when my plane touched down in Lima. Antonio, my driver, was very gracious and pointed out interesting sights along the way to La Posada del Parque, the hotel where I stayed while in Lima. It’s a relatively quite place and the only reason I say relatively is that I am sure that I will hear the incessant beeping of car horns all night long. I don’t think the drivers honk at anything in particular. I think they either like the sound of their horn (some are quite entertaining, on the first toot anyway) or perhaps they just get bored and it gives them something to do in the traffic while they’re waiting.

Speaking of traffic, I had heard and read that it is some of the worst in the world. And I will have to say that I agree. I have only seen driving like this one other time in my life. It was when I was in Barcelona and I remember thinking back then that anyone who got in a car had a death wish. I am happy to report that I have not been involved in any automobile accidents as of yet nor have I witnessed any. I did, however see numerous near misses and close calls. There are two things that are perplexing me at this moment about things I saw while being strategically driven through the city. The first is how many people can actually fit in a minibus? These small buses look like a sardine cannery attendant packed them. They are similar to VW vans and apparently have a capacity of 50. The second question is what in the world are these people who walk down the middle of the road thinking? In America, it is common to see window washers or people with flowers weaving in and out of traffic near an intersection. I’m okay with this and although I think it’s dangerous it makes more sense than what I’ve seen so far. I’ve seen old women, young men, and children, all walking the white lines in the middle of the road peddling whatever it is they think will sell. This wouldn’t be too much of a stretch from what you see in America if not for a few things. 1) There are three lanes of traffic but cars are five lanes thick and 2) In between the cars is where the motorcycles zip by which also happens to be the street peddlers’ lanes. I really don’t understand how there aren’t more accidents and deaths. Fortunately, I haven’t witnessed anyone driving on the sidewalk as I did when I was in Puerto Rico; always proof that things can get worse.

While in Lima, I walked around the city, one thing the guide book says you really shouldn’t do. However, my new Peruvian friend, Eulo, from the hotel wanted to practice his English so he went along with me. We first headed to the Museo de la Archeological and then on to the Plaza Mejor and the Cathedral. I also had a local dish, ceviche which was very yummy. In the evening, I had dinner with a new friend from England, Rachel. It was her last night in Lima and she gave me several pointers on things to see in Peru. She’s a very sweet girl and I’m looking forward to traveling to England and visiting my new friend. On Saturday afternoon I ventured out on my own and visited the Museo de la San Francisco y Catacombes. The San Francisco Monastery was one of the most important churches in Lima in the 17th century which also served as the local cemetery. During the 17th and 18th centuries there were over 200 monks that lived at the convent. Today, there are a total of 35. Although the church was absolutely unforgettable it was easily surpasses by the catacombs which served as the burial grounds for over 75,000 people for over two centuries. I think it would be a little creepy to go to church on Sunday knowing that there were dead people right under the pews but apparently that was life back then.

Now, I am sitting in my apartment in Arequipa which is in Southern Peru. I’ve met a whole host of interesting people on my trip. Serena, from Milan, who loves to salsa dance. Katharina, originally from Germany, who now lives in Paris. Brenda, who lives in North Carolina but was born in Peru. Rachel, who is a vet who lives in England and my newest friend, Ines, who is from Hamburg, Germany. She is staying with the same host family as I am. She’s a great girl and took me out today to the supermarket so I could pick up some things and showed me around some of Arequipa…mainly the beautiful Plaza de Armas.

My host family, the Paz-Cornejo’s are amazing. They speak slowly and use exaggerated hand gestures so most of the time I am able, even with my limited ability, to keep up with the conversation. As I said before, I am actually in a small apartment above the main house, which is a little bigger than my cabin at the lake. There are two bedrooms, one bathroom, a living room, and a full kitchen. I think at some point I will probably have a roommate which will be fine with me. Ines has a room in the main house. Although I haven’t met everyone, apparently the grandmother, and a sister with her children also live here. It kind of reminds me of a small apartment complex.

Last night while I was sleeping I awoke to what sounded like gunshots and lots of them. I lay there in bed thinking “Boy am I in the wrong place. It’s not safe to go out at all at night.” I asked Henry, the father, in the morning, in completely broken Spanish what the noise was last night. He said that it was the church setting off fireworks in a celebration. I can’t tell you how relieved I was. It is much calmer here than in Lima. Not near as many people and much less traffic, although no one here knows how to drive either.

I start school tomorrow at 9:00 a.m. Ines says it will take us 30 minutes to walk there. I’m looking forward to it. She says that she’s only been in school a week and had never taken Spanish before and she speaks so much better than me. She has been in country for three weeks now though and in a few weeks she’ll start volunteering at a local orphanage. We’ve already talked about taking a few trips together, although at this point I’m sad to report that I might not be able to make it to Bolivia…political unrest. Apparently the Presidents of both Bolivia and Venezuela have kicked out the U.S. Ambassadors. We’ll see though…the most dangerous road in the world is in Bolivia and I was really looking forward to riding a bike on it. So maybe things will calm down before too long.

Of course, being a quick learner, there are some things I’ve already figured out…
1) When you ride in the taxi always make sure to keep your bags in the center of the car as someone walking down the street will take them from you if they are near the door when you are stopped.
2) Traffic signals and signs mean absolutely nothing…to anyone.
3) No one will speak to you (or heckle you) if you have a male escort and the exact opposite is true…no escort, you better get ready!
4) Don’t even think about trying to pass off an old or torn bill…American or Sol. No one will take them…period.
5) Unless you want to constantly be at the end of the line you better get ready to be pushy. It’s time to learn to be assertive.

I’ve already had great fun and am looking forward to school this week. I already know my mind is going to be worn out. Translating the dinner conversations has been fun yet exhausting. I’m ready for this to get a little easier. But number one…it’s been great fun!

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